Tuesday, December 6, 2016

13 Days of a Woodworker Christmas - Sliding Lego Table

Hi guys!  Welcome to Day 6 of the 13 Days of a Woodworker Christmas!  I am so excited to be participating  and am thrilled to have you stop by! This is my very first written tutorial and video share, so if you have any questions, please let me know!

While this particular tutorial isn’t for a Christmas specific project, it could make a pretty awesome gift for any of the little ones in your life!  At first glance it may seem like any other child’s table and chair set, but what I think makes this one unique is that rather than dealing with any bulky heavy drawers or table tops that have to be removed, this table top is on full extension drawer slides and caster wheels and easily glides out of the way to access the storage below.  And because it’s supported by its own legs, there’s no worry about  little ones tipping it over! 
I’ve referred to this as a Lego table after I built my first one a few years ago for my boys to store their crazy amounts of Lego.  But of course, it’s certainly not limited to that!  It would work so well for trains, crafts, art supplies or spontaneous tea parties!

To make the build as clear as possible, I’ve included instructions here, printable instructions and cut layouts to take to your shop, AND a couple of build videos just in case you need a little more clarification.

EDITED:  Just thought I'd quickly clarify that the table base actually stays stationary while the table top slides.  This allows the little ones to open the table even if it's loaded up with lots of toys that would be too heavy for them to move if it was in a drawer. :)

Click here to download a PDF cut layout and full build plans

Let’s get started!

Sliding Table

Shopping List:

1 - 4x8 – ¾” plywood or MDF

2 – 2x2 @ 8’  -  I like to use spruce or pine

Iron on Edge Banding

Pair of full extension drawer slides – I’m using 27” slides

Pair of 1-1/2” ridged caster wheels

Pocket hole plugs

1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Cut List:


(1)  5-1/2” x 27” (Table base front)

(1)  5-1/2” x 27” (Table base back)

(2)  5-1/2” x 29-1/2” (Table base sides)

*(1)  28-1/2” x 31” (Table base bottom)*

(1)  36” x 36” (Sliding table top)

*(1)  6” x 31” (Sliding table top front)*

(2)  6” x 32-1/2” (Sliding table top sides)

*Please Note:  These two pieces should be cut to their finished size after the main portion of the table is built as your measurements may differ slightly from what I’ve listed depending on your lumber and drawer slides clearance requirement. 

2x2 Lumber:

(4)  2x2 @ 20” long (Table base legs)

(2)  2x2 @ 20” long (Sliding table top legs) - These will need to be trimmed down the height of your caster wheels minus ¼”.  My wheels are 1-1/2”, so I’ll cut 1-1/4” off this leg measurement for a length of 18 ¾” before adding my wheels.  This allows enough clearance to prevent the table top from hitting the base.

I’m using ¾” pocket holes and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Click here to watch me build the table.

Construct the front and back of the table by attaching the 5-1/2” x 27” plywood front and back pieces to the 20” legs with pocket holes and screws, keeping the plywood flush with the OUTSIDE edge of the table leg.

Attach 5-1/2” x 29-1/2” table base sides to the front and back with pocket holes and screws also keeping them flush with the outside of the legs.

Measure the interior of the table and cut the table bottom to this size.  After the bottom was cut, I laid my table upside down on it and traced out the portion of the table leg that overlapped the piece.  With a jig saw, I simply cut out these corners.  Drill pocket holes along each side on the underside and attach to the table.

It should be a fairly snug fit, but I chose to run a bead of caulk around the entire joint to seal it completely. I left the interior of the table open, but you could certainly add a few simple dividers using any leftover plywood and few pocket holes and screws. 

To start the sliding table top, first measure the front of the table.  This measurement, plus the required clearance for the drawer slides will be used to cut the front table top apron for the sliding top.  My table was 30” and my drawer slides each require ½” clearance, so my piece had to be 31”.  Before attaching the legs, they will need to be trimmed down the height of your caster wheels minus ¼”.  My wheels are 1-1/2”, so I’ll cut 1-1/4” off this leg measurement for a length of 18 ¾” before adding my wheels.  The total leg height WITH wheels should be 20-1/4”.  This allows enough clearance to prevent the table top from hitting the base.  Be sure to line up the plywood with the INSIDE of the table legs. 

Add ¾” pocket holes along the top to attach the table top.

For the sliding table top sides, drill pocket holes along the top and only the front edge to attach the leg, lining them up with the INSIDE of the table legs.


Once attached, you should have just enough clearance between the sides for your drawer slides.

Next step is the table top.  I used plywood and chose to cover the raw edges with an iron-on edge banding.  If you choose to use MDF, this step wouldn’t be necessary.        

In my video I attach the top by measuring everything, but later remembered that on the first table I built I actually just flipped the sliding top upside down and placed the table base half way inside it.  I then temporarily rested the slides between the table base sides and the sliding top sides.  I held the table top slides in place against the drawer slides and attached the top with  1-1/4” pocket screws.  Doing it this way keeps everything lined up with no measuring. 

At this point I decided to prime, paint and seal the entire table.  I used Bulls Eye 123 water based primer, Behr’s Premium Plus latex in their straight-out-of-the-can ultra pure white in a satin finish, and topped it with Minwax Polycrylic in satin.

To attach the drawer slides to the table base, I centered the slide on the table side, lining up the back edge of the slide with the back of the table. Repeat on the other side.

To attach the top, measure the length of the slide and add ¼” to that number.  My drawer slides are 27” so my measurement will be 27-1/4”  Mark that distance from the back open side of the table top towards the front and mark a line.  Rest the table top on the base, using some scrap ¼” lumber to account for the required clearance.  Slide out the drawer slide, line it up with the 27-1/4” mark and add your screws.  Continue to slowly pull the table top out to add the remaining screws.

And the table is complete!

Small Chairs

(Materials listed are for 4 chairs)

Shopping List:

3 – 2x2 @ 8’

1 – 1x3 @ 3’

3 – 1x2 @ 8’

1 – 1x12 @ 5’

1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Pocket hole plugs

Wood glue

Cutting List :

8 – 2x2 @ 21” long (back legs)

8 – 2x2 @ 11” long (front legs

4 – 1x3 @ 8” long (chair back rest)

4 – 1x2 @ 8” long (chair back rest)

8 – 1x2 @ 8” long (front and back seat supports)

16 – 1x2 @ 9” long (side seat and leg supports)

Click here to watch me build a chair

Chair Back

Drill ¾” pocket holes on each end of the back rest pieces.  Attach all back boards to the 21” back legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.  I used a ¼” thick wood scrap as a spacer to offset the back rest pieces from the top and front edge of the legs.  Keep the pocket holes on the backrest pieces facing the back of the chair.    I chose to fill these pocket holes using Kregs paint grade wood plugs as I knew I was going to paint the chair.  I glued the plugs in place and cut off the protruding portion once the glue was dry so it was flush with the back of the chair.

The bottom seat support should have the pocket holes facing forward so they will be hidden by the seat.

Chair Front

Join the front 11” legs with the 8” 1x2 using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.  I used my ¼” scrap lumber again to offset the piece from the front of the legs.

Join the front and back of the chair with the 9” 1x2 side aprons and bottom supports with glue and pocket hole screws.


Mark 1-1/2” from the top and each side of the seat and cut out each corner to accommodate the back chair legs.    I used my band saw, but a jig saw or small hand saw would also work.

Before attaching the seat, I chose to paint the chair and stain the seat for some contrast.  Like the table, I primed, painted & sealed.  For the seat, I stained in Minwax Jacobean and sealed it with Minwax Wipe on Poly in a satin finish.

Attach the seat to chair from the underside with small corner brackets and 5/8” screws. 

Done!  Only 3 more to go.

Now, about that giveaway! 
We've teamed up with @RyobiPowerTools and @PaintWIZ_ Paint Sprayers to bring you a prize pack valued at over $300!  Have you seen Ryobi's new One+ 18v Brushless Hammer Drill/Driver Kit in stores yet?  I bet you haven't because these haven't even hit the shelves yet.  How about Fuji Spray's DIY turbine paint sprayer called the PaintWIZ?  We've got that too!  US and Canadian residents only please*

To enter to win the giveaway, repost the 13 Days of Woodworker Christmas Image to your Instagram feed with the tag #13DaysofWoodworking.  Want additional entries?  Each day a different blogger "unwraps" their project they'll post a teaser image on their Instagram feed.  Follow their account (and check out their project!) and repost their teaser image to your Instagram feed with the same tag #13DaysofWoodworking along with the unique tag that's will be given out along with each project.  We are giving you 14 different chances to win this awesome gift pack!  You have until 10:00pm PST on December 14th to enter.  All entries will be tallied and a winner will be announced Friday, December 16th.

My "unique tag" for the extra bonus entry specific to my project is #legochristmas

Good luck and thanks again for stopping by!!


Monday, November 28, 2016

13 days of a Woodworker Christmas!

13 Days of a Woodworker Christmas!

13 Bloggers
13 Days
13 Projects

We have teamed up to bring you 13 days of awesome original build plans that you can make in time for Christmas. Sure, we could do 12 days of Christmas like the d├ęcor bloggers, but we are woodworkers! Not only do you get an extra project, but we are giving you a chance to get your own Christmas present as well through our giveaway!

When Does This Holiday Start?

Here’s the deal: For thirteen days, starting December 1st and ending December 13th, thirteen talented bloggers are going to share their woodcraft Christmas ideas with you. There will be a little something for everyone, with projects at different skill levels.

So mark your calendars for December 1st when the fun kicks off. Come back each day and unwrap the link to each blogger’s post.

Who Are These Talented Bloggers?

My Love 2 CreateOpen Now
The Handyman's DaughterOpen Now
Craftsman DriveOpen Now
Handmade with AshleyOpen Now
Hazel & GoldOpen Now
The Painted KeyOpen Now
The Created HomeOpen Now
Her Tool BeltOpen Now
Lazy Guy DIY Open Now 
Uncookie CutterOpen Now
Knock It Off CrafterOpen Now
The Jawn ShopOpen Now
Keddie WoodshopOpen Now

But What About My Present?

We did say giveaway didn't we?  Have you been naughty or nice this year?  We've teamed up with RyobiPowerTools and PaintWIZ_ Paint Sprayers to bring you a prize pack valued at over $300!  Have you seen Ryobi's new One+ 18v Brushless Hammer Drill/Driver Kit in stores yet?  I bet you haven't because these haven't even hit shelves yet.  How about Fuji Spray's DIY turbine paint sprayer called the PaintWIZ?  We've got that too! 

But how do I enter?  

To enter to win the giveaway repost the 13 Days of a Woodworker Christmas image to your Instagram feed starting December 1st. Be sure to include the tag #13daysofwoodworking. Your account will need to be set to public to be counted for the giveaway.

Want additional entries? Each day a different blogger "unwraps" their project they will post a teaser image on their Instagram feed. Follow their account, check out their project, and repost the teaser image to your IG feed with the same tag #13daysofwoodworking along with the unique tag that will be given out with each project. That's 14 different chances to win this awesome gift pack. Because, after all, it's the season of giving!

You have until 10pm PST on December 14th to enter. All entries will be tallied and a winner announced Friday, December 16th. US and Canada residents only please*

Friday, November 11, 2016

Time for a Refresh

Hi guys!

I know things have been really quiet here for awhile (ahem, 3 months??) but just wanted to let you know I'm still around! ;)  I'm planning to make a few changes to my blog over the next little while, so things may seem a bit crazy for a bit.  I apologize for any inconvenience!  It's just high time this page got a bit of an update!  Thanks friends!

Sunday, July 24, 2016

#IGBuilders Challenge

Hi guys!  If you've been following me on facebook, then this is old news, but if not, I'm very excited to share this with you!  A few weeks ago I decided to sign up for a building challenge.

When I signed up, I had no idea what we would actually be asked to build.  After the signup deadline had passed, all builders were sent a set of plans for a simple console table.  We were given instructions to build it, make a few minor modifications if we wanted (as long as the finished piece still resembled the plan), and paint/stain/complete it...all within 3 weeks!  Normally this would have been a simple feat for me and I wouldn't have thought much of it, but with my kids home from school for the summer, I knew my shop time was going to be drastically reduced and I wasn't sure I would meet the 3 week deadline.  BUT, I decided to go for it anyway. ;)

This is a picture of the original plan...

As soon as I saw it, I knew what i wanted to do! :)  I redrew the plan in sketchup but with the modifications I had in mind to make sure it would still "look right".  My modifications included 2 additional legs in the front so I could divide it into 3 sections for drawers and made it two thinner drawers instead of one deeper one.  I also narrowed it down a few inches so I would only have to purchase 8' boards instead of 12' - they're easier to transport in my van - haha! ;)    I also added the bottom shelf and the X's to the sides to match our coffee table I built last month.   I loved it (and hoped the judges would too!)

I purchased a mix of fir, knotty pine and pine plywood and got to work!

I started by building the main frame.

From there I built and added the drawers.

This is actually just a test fit to make sure they were all fitting perfectly before I installed all the drawer slides. :)

For the top I ran all my lumber through my thickness planer to make sure they were all the same thickness and then glued them up to make a larger solid piece rather than use a plywood or other type of sheet material.  One of the things in the original plan that I liked the look of was the breadboard ends.  Rather that just using pocket holes and screws, I decided to attempt a more traditional method called tongue and groove.  I've definitely got to work on it a bit more, but I was happy with the result...even if it's not 100% accurate. ;)

Drawers installed and breadboard ends attached!

I chose to do a stained top and painted bottom.  The colour I chose for paint is called "Ashwood" by Benjamin Moore.  I had the colour matched at Home Depot in a satin finish in their Behr Premium Plus paint line.  I sprayed on at least 4 coats, lightly distressed all the edges (because I know my kids will naturally add to that over time!) and then followed it with a satin polycrylic clear coat.

The top is stained in Minwax Jacobean and finished with a satin wipe-on poly.

To install the drawer fronts, one of the other builders in the challenge shared a tip she had learned - and it is brilliant!  By using a deck (or 3) of playing cards as shims, it allows easy adjustments to space the drawer fronts perfectly!

I always drill my hardware holes in the drawer fronts first so they're perfectly centered.  Then, once shimmed in place, I temporary screw the fronts to the drawer boxes through the predrilled holes.  I shoot a few small staples with my nail gun from the inside of the drawer box into the back of the drawer front which holds the front in place when I remove the temporary screws.  From there I just run my drill through the previous holes I drilled in the drawer front, through the drawer box, and there you go, perfect placement holes for the hardware!

Speaking of hardware, aren't these gorgeous???  I found them at our local Windsor Plywood and knew they were perfect!  I believe it was an "aged bronze" finish.

And, here is my finished table!

I am SO thrilled with how my table turned out and it fits in perfectly in our home!  Now, this was a building challenge and there could only be one winner.  Definitely head over to Instagram and check out #IGBuilderschallenge and see the other builders gorgeous builds! As soon as the tables started being posted, I had NO idea how the judges would ever make a decision!  SOOO tough!

With over 200 builders signed up and SO many gorgeous tables built, I never actually thought I would ever win....well, I was completely shocked and overjoyed when I received a message saying that the judges had picked MY table as the winner!!!

I couldn't believe it...and was a little more than excited. ;)  Lets just say our neighbors thought we'd won the lottery the way I was freaking out on our back deck! ;)  Hey, I felt like I had!!

Anyway, now that the challenge is done, I'm sitting back for a little breather before working on the next project. ;)  Well...maybe.... 

Thanks for popping by!